Why Old Sherry Whisky Distilled and Casked Before 1980 is Exceptional
The image above shows Mortlach 12 Year Old 43% 750ml, a sherry cask matured whisky distilled and casked before the 1970s and bottled and sold in the early 1980s. It is one of the iconic sherry cask matured whiskies distributed during the Special Grade Whisky era, which lasted until 1989.
At our shop, Antique Liquor, we primarily source old bottles to provide high-quality whisky that offers performance exceeding its price, from relatively affordable expressions to luxury items. We believe that many of our visitors are also captivated by the unique charm of old bottle whisky.
We have previously shared on our blog why old bottle whiskies perform better than current releases, highlighting the following reasons:
Barley varieties were changed to prioritize spirit yield for mass production rather than the flavor profile of the whisky.
The loss of meticulous control in handcrafted processes, such as floor malting, due to the shift to industrial mass-production methods.
The depletion of high-quality oak casks for aging, such as genuine casks that once held premium sherry wine for long periods.
Differences in the standards regarding age statements displayed on whisky labels.
Among these factors, I would like to briefly share why you should specifically choose old bottles distilled and casked before 1980 when it comes to Sherry Whisky. First, let’s touch upon the process of oak cask maturation.
As whisky matures in oak casks, the following chemical reactions occur:
Additive effects: The influence of substances extracted from the oak wood, primarily volatile aromatic compounds such as aldehydes, lipids, tannins, and lactones.
Subtractive effects: The charred interior of the oak cask acts like a charcoal filter, absorbing certain constituents from the raw spirit.
Cross-reaction: The interaction between the spirit and the wood, where they exchange constituent substances to create new compounds.
Oxidation: The evaporation and oxidation of the spirit caused by the fact that oak casks are not hermetically sealed.
Once the raw spirit is placed in the cask, the whisky is completed through these chemical reactions in the natural environment. This underscores the immense importance of the oak cask as a vital raw material for whisky making.
From the end of the 19th century until the 1980s, sherry wine intended for export was stored and shipped overseas in the casks themselves. At that time, sherry wine enjoyed stable popularity in the UK, and Spain's export volume of sherry to Britain was substantial.
Because it was a hassle for traders to return the empty casks to Spain after the wine was delivered, they would sell or dispose of these remaining sherry casks to Scottish distilleries. Consequently, high-quality casks that had held premium sherry for months or even years were easily available for maturing whisky.
The sherry casks of that era were newly built for transport rather than for aging the sherry itself, so they were treated to minimize flavor components like tannins, which can cause bitterness. It is said that these new casks were filled with young wine to slightly neutralize them before being filled with the long-aged sherry intended for sale. (This neutralization process is crucial for whisky maturation, but today many distilleries omit or drastically simplify it due to the high costs involved.)
Following this neutralization, the casks were filled with fortified sherry wine (which has a long shelf life), and there were cases where the sherry remained in the casks for months or even several years. This was likely influenced by the global collapse in supply and demand during the Great Depression and war periods.
A prime example of a whisky matured in such high-quality sherry casks that held premium wine for a long time is the Royal Lochnagar Selected Reserve, released in the late 1980s. The sherry casks used for this whisky are said to have been casks that held premium sherry for more than several years (likely due to the economic downturn). For this reason, many sherry cask matured whiskies distributed until the early 1980s are exceptionally delicious, and I consistently recommend them.
However, after the early 1980s, the shipping containers for sherry wine shifted from wooden casks to stainless steel tanks. In 1986, a law was enacted requiring sherry wine to be bottled in its place of origin, Spain. This made it nearly impossible to find high-quality sherry casks outside of Spain (such as in the UK). Around this time, genuine sherry casks that had once held premium sherry wine disappeared. To compensate for the shortage, people began manufacturing sherry-seasoned casks using cheap sherry wine to create something that looked like a sherry cask.
Furthermore, the process of neutralizing impurities like tannins was simplified or omitted when making these seasoned casks, which is thought to have led to a significant increase in the production of whiskies with bitter and dry characteristics.
(To begin with, the sherry wine used for seasoning casks today often doesn't even meet the regulations to be officially called sherry. Since it is not produced for drinking, it is typically discarded after coating the wood or reprocessed into sherry vinegar.)
For the reasons above, it is highly likely that whiskies distilled and casked before 1986—and considering various factors, particularly those before 1981—were matured in these real sherry casks. Occasionally, people claim that real sherry casks and modern imitation sherry whiskies taste almost the same, but once you actually taste them, the difference is clear. Old sherry whisky matured in real sherry casks definitely has fewer off-flavors such as astringency and harshness, and often possesses a more diverse and rich aroma, or a more floral and well-balanced flavor.
*The image above shows the Macallan 10 Year Old (57% ABV) that I once enjoyed at a bar in Tokyo. This is a 1980s bottling of a sherry cask matured Scotch single malt, a classic and popular example of old Scotch sherry whisky.
Naturally, old sherry whiskies distilled and casked before 1981 come in various expressions, from 3-year-olds to 8, 10, 12, 17, 18, 25, and even ultra-long-aged whiskies over 30 years. The price increases with the age statement. However, if the price is comparable, I am certain that an old bottled sherry cask matured whisky offers far superior value for money than a modern sherry whisky.
From my personal experience, the Macallan 12 Year Old 43% that was on the market in the early 1980s was much tastier than the current Macallan 25 Year Old 43%. If you have doubts about what I am saying, I recommend you take a leap of faith and try a delicious old bottle of sherry cask matured whisky—it may well change your perspective.
Finally, some of you may be thinking, "I don't have enough money to drink old bottled whisky." However, if you look for 10-12 year old sherry cask matured whiskies distilled before 1981 and bottled in the early 1990s, there are several good options available for around 30,000 yen. If you expand your search to include blended malts matured in sherry casks, there are quite a few old sherry whiskies that can be found in the 10,000 to 20,000 yen range. I recommend that you do your research without being too daunted and expand your horizons within your budget.